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When assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. However, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.